Use the Call Before You Dig hotline, 8-1-1, at least two weeks before your planned work day. ![]() Some dangers of using a stump grinder include flying wood chips or rocks, and possibly cutting utility lines. The machine grinds to a depth of about 8 inches, throwing the debris into a nearby pile. The process of stump grinding can be dangerous to the operator and bystanders. If you do it yourself, be sure to wear the proper protective gear including safety glasses and hearing protection when using a stump grinder. Stump removal machines are available at The Home Depot Rental, Sunbelt Rentals, United Rentals, or your local equipment rental company. You could hire out the work, but it’s not a difficult DIY project. Grinding removes the stump in as little as 15 minutes, but it could take 2 hours or more. Fire needs oxygen, so the more exposure it has, the faster it will burn. To accelerate the process, improve airflow by digging soil away from the base of the stump. Instead, build a fire over the exposed top of the stump and keep it burning. The liquid tends to burn off without actually igniting the stump. It’s dangerous and really not that effective. Dousing it with flammable liquid is not a great idea. Setting a stump on fire is not as easy as it sounds. It could take a day or longer, depending on the size, type of wood, moisture content, weather conditions, and many other variables. Finally, plan to attend the fire the entire time that it is burning. Also, extend a connected, pressurized garden hose to the area to quickly extinguish any flames that ignite outside the area of the burning stump. Consult your local fire department for any information about burning advisories in your area before attempting this solution.īefore lighting the fire, clear the area of flammable materials and trip hazards within at least a 20 foot radius of the stump. This method may be more time consuming than digging, and does not thoroughly remove the roots below soil level, but it may provide satisfactory results with somewhat less physical exertion. If the stump has dried thoroughly, burning it out could be a workable solution. Remove the stump, with its root ball and any large roots. When the taproot is exposed, use the sharp edge of the mattock to chop through it. Use the digging iron to loosen soil beneath the stump or to pry the stump sideways for additional working space. Continue working downward and inward from all sides toward the taproot beneath the stump. As roots are exposed, chop through them with the mattock. Clear away the loose soil with the spade. To remove a tree stump by digging, begin by loosening the soil around it with the mattock. Use the digging iron to dig into deep or narrow spaces, and to pry up stubborn roots. The mattock, chops through roots like an axe, and loosens compacted soils easily. A narrow spade with a mid-length handle, like the Fiskars 46-inch Transplanting Spade, digs deeply and maneuvers easily around the dense root ball. To dig out the stump you’ll need a sturdy spade, mattock, and digging iron. ![]() This is a labor-intensive approach, but very much doable with the right tools. Digging only requires basic hand tools, rather than renting or hiring a large, expensive machine. Dig the Tree Stump Outįor smaller stumps, up to about 12 inches in diameter, digging out the stump could be the most practical solution. Let’s take a closer look at each of these methods to learn why they may or may not be right for you. ![]() Physical removal methods come with their own sets of challenges. If you need the stump gone as soon as possible, you could make quick work of it by digging, grinding, or burning it out. Water-softening grade is just as good as “pool salt” since it all dissolves anyway.Keep reading to find a solution that’s suitable for your situation. Salt for SWG pools runs about $5-6 per 40 lb bags. Baking soda (Alk Up) is also omnipresent, but at BJ’s is a steal at $14 for 13 lbs.Ĭyanuric acid (Cl- stabilizer) usually goes for about $3-6/lb at hardware & pool stores, but online, you can run into $2.50/lb if you’re lucky.īoric acid (pH stabilizer) can be gotten from or bulkapothecary for about $60-80 per 50 lbs. Borax (pH Up) is available everywhere as well for about $5 for 4 lbs. It’s a little more expensive for the same effective amount, but it’s worth it for the convenience, and is available at most hardware stores and (of course) online.Īs mentioned, muriatic acid (pH Down) is pretty much available everywhere for around $10/gallon or less. It does have calcium in it, but my liner is vinyl and my fill water in the NE is supersoft, so the extra calcium actually helps. It’s also lighter to carry than gallon jugs. Cal-hypo (FC) lasts indefinitely whereas liquid chlorine weakens pretty quickly, and worse if its highly concentrated (>6%).
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